After yesterday’s punch needle saga, I used this afternoon’s much needed, rainy, dreary day to tackle a few drawers in the basement.
It didn’t take me long to channel Patrick B from my ANG and EGA chapters to finally repurpose a lovely mother of pearl vintage (1950’s) Marhill cigarette case into a needle case for my beading needles. It has no chips or cracks to the mother of pearl and is in fantastic condition inside too. The case still has the original “Marhill” sticker inside and measures 3 by 4 inches. I even have a Marhill purple pouch to hold it, which is probably why the case is in such good condition.


I’ve had these business card magnets for several years, which were bought for the case. However, I was never able to find both the magnets and the case at the same time. I got lucky today!

I cut 2 magnets to fit side by side. One side is sticky. It now holds the beading needles that I don’t know what size or brand they are.

My EdMar #11 Beading Short Needles and Tulip #10 Beading Long Needles are in a tube that won’t fit in this case. The pack of Bohn #28 Tapestry needles really aren’t beading needles but work for many beads. I’ll keep these with my new case in my beading box.
With that success, I tackled my regular needles and tossed about 2 dozen used needles. I think I can replace my needles more frequently!

That’s enough for today.
Here’s a Tapestry needle size guide.

Filed under: General comments, Needlepoint Shops, Punch Needle, The Bee & The Bear - Punch Needle
I have (or had) 3 punch needle projects that I tried without success. They were not where I expected them to be. I was going to take them to my class. Damn, Bill was right – he said I wouldn’t be able to find them! Is it possible that I gave up on them and put them in an Ebay auction at Fireside Stitchery?
Here’s a photo of the one I picked up in 2013 at Liberty Cottage, a Folk Art Stitchery store – close to Expressions in NeedleArt in Canandaigua, NY. I know this thanks to my post https://melitastitches4fun.com/2013/07/17/needlepoint-visit-to-rochester-canandaigua-ny/. I’m happy to say both stores are still operating. I don’t get there too often but they are well worth the visit if you’re in the area (30 minutes southeast of Rochester).

I signed up for this class as soon as I saw “Punch Needle with Embroidery Floss for Beginners” would be at Mainline School Night(.org). The teacher is Katie Kriner, Author, Fibert Artist, Shop Owner of The Bee & The Bear, which I see is in Hereford, PA (about 1 hour 20 minutes north of Philadelphia-kind of between Allentown and Reading). From the photos, I would describe it as a Folk Art Stitchery store, too.
Class description: Learn to punch an intricate floral 4” embroidery hoop; choosing between various different flower colors. Leave with instruction and knowledge to punch and the tools to create your own future pieces. Class materials include an ultra punch punch needle, 7” Morgan interlocking hoop for punching, wooden display hoop, backing fabric, and floss to complete the piece.
The class was in the Creutzburg Center – 260 Gulph Creek Road (in Harford Park) Radnor, PA 19087. They hold a variety of classes there. The parking lot was full. It’s a great venue.
The Morgan hoop as a single hoop is fantastic. You can get the fabric really tight because of a ridge inside the one hoop (interlocking design). You can get a pair of 5″/7″ or 7″/10″ and make a lap stand. I’m surprised that nobody in EGA has ever mentioned these.



The ultra punch needle is the same as the one I can’t find. Perhaps I didn’t thread the needle properly. Or, perhaps I didn’t understand that you punch on the design side and that is actually the back.

This is what I got done during class (left side) and what it should end up looking like (teacher’s sample on the right).

It was a small class of 8 people and 2 hours went quickly. Katie is a mother of 2-year old twins (boy and a girl). Very nice woman. She brought some of everything from her store to entice us! I can always make a road trip to Hereford, especially if we visit our friend near Jim Thorpe.
Katie wrote a book during covid. She sells it at her store, on her website, or Amazon. She has an Etsy store. I’ll probably try her rug hooking class. It uses a different tool and yarn.

As I was finishing this post, I realized that the punch needle that I purchased should be in my infrequently used “tool” drawer in the basement cabinet. I was looking for a project. I wondered why I’d buy a peacock to punch. It was there! Now, I can punch with 2 different colors without switching threads. It’s a process to thread the punch needle. I still don’t know where those 2 little punch needle projects are hiding. Katie’s ultra punch needle came with 2 threaders, 2 springs, and 3 needles (small, medium, and large). So, I am set with equipment.
Filed under: A Spring Sampler, Brandywine Chapter, Embroidery Guild of America, General comments, Needles, Tools
I found this bag at Target (https://www.target.com/p/solid-soft-satchel-handbag-a-new-day-8482-tan/-/A-91898942). It’s 10″ (H) x 15″ x 8″ (D) – perfect for the fall color skinny version of A Spring Sampler. Good price, too ($35). It will hold my battery pack, the Chapter’s eMeet speaker, Chapter business cards, travel tool kit, portable light, and curling iron. I am avoiding glue for this bag.
I needed the needle for leather from my Home Craft Repair kit of needles because the bag is made of polyurethane. I pinned the canvas in place and stitched through the inner lining, but it isn’t puckering too much, and I retained full access to the 2 cell phone pockets on the front inner side. Here’s the top edge attached.

The process of stitching the top in place made me think a thimble and a curved sharp needle would make the sides and bottom easier to stitch through the bag and hopefully not catch the lining. And, at this point, my hand needed a rest, and a trip to Joann’s was needed to get the sharp curved needles because I only have tapestry curved needles.
The curved sharp needles didn’t work well. Leverage was the problem. But, the package came with a small eye, very sharp straight needle. The real improvement came because of the Dritz thimble. What a difference that made.

An aside: In order to find the thimble when I need it again, I am putting the thimble in my Stitch pen/tool cup on top of That Purple Thang by Lynn Graves which I have not used much (if ever). If I get rid of it, I’ll need it!

I was able to pull the lining away on the sides and bottom and push the needle through the front of the polyurethane, angle the needle back to the surface further along the canvas like a running stitch. I didn’t care how far. Some stitches are longer than others but the trim will cover it.
Once all 4 sides were attached, I cut the canvas down to 7 canvas threads wide and attached the trim. I found a 1/2″ wide dark brown flat trim at Joann’s. And, Mandarin Floss M833 was a perfect color match. I decided to catch the polyurethane and canvas periodically as I attached the trim down the center using 2 strands. I pulled out my mini pliers and that helped too.
When Bill and I were in the store looking at different trims, he placed this trim on the needlepoint and folded it around a corner. Before I started, I worked out how to do that on all 4 corners with a short length first. I had to cinch the ends together to stop them from fraying (no glue) and taper them to hide the ends easier.

I went back around a second time with one strand to sew down the outer edge. It probably took me 12 hours altogether since starting this on Thursday. There was some cursing but no bleeding. I didn’t jab my fingers once! I was very careful. That leather needle would have hurt.
The most exciting part is that it’s even at 1.75″ above the bottom edge. It looks good and no glue!

Woodlawn and Nelly’s Needlers are preparing for the 62nd Needlework Exhibit which is their 50th Anniversary exhibit. They’re trying to get participants from all 50 states! It’s a must see. I have my piece ready.
Read all about it at https://www.woodlawnpopeleighey.org/nwshow25

The Valley Forge Quilt Show will be held Friday October 18 (10 am – 5 pm) and Saturday October 19 (10 am – 4 pm) at the Good Shepherd Lutheran Church (132 E Valley Forge Rd, King of Prussia).
Donation of $10 requested. There will be over 200 quilts on display to marvel at. Plenty of shopping at a boutique, vendors, Grandma’s Attic, and a table full of treats.
If you can stop by, you won’t be disappointed. Do some early Christmas shopping, make an appointment in advance with a quilt appraiser (for a charge), and take a chance (or two) at a gift basket.
I’ll be there Saturday before my canvas painting class at Fireside Stitchery with Stephanie, the designer of Spellbound Stitchery.

I wanted the search terms to pick up fix, repair, mend, torn, or ripped, which accounts for the title.
Katie C on Needlepoint Nation shared that one of her canvases has a small tear. She asked for any tips on how to fix this spot.

She got such good responses that I need to save them. I just hope I never need to try these.
Felice F said, “You might consider cutting a small square of canvas and placing it underneath so when you stitch the area, you stitch through both canvases.”
Michael J said, “For tiny spots like this, you can use a piece of dental floss. At least an inch away start an away knot or waste knot with the dental floss in same line that is broken. Weave in and out. Go past your affected area about 1 inch. Your dental floss will become your new thread. Finish off by burying your tail and end with waste knot that will be covered.”
Susan K P said, “Many years ago, in a class, the instructor had us cut the canvas on purpose. She then had us pull a single thread from the selvage, and weave it in about two/three threads below and above the cut…… making sure we ended up on the reverse side. Snip it with scissors and stitch. This is the same method to repair cuts on linen or other fabrics like that. It is simple, easy, and quick. No need to to cut and attach a square to your canvas or pay someone to repair it. Same thing can be done to a damaged, yet stitched, canvas or fabric. It is also the method used to repair hardanger that has been cut incorrectly.
But what ever method you do….. please don’t use glue on that expensive canvas with the expensive fibers. Unless you have access to a “restoration” type product, the chemicals in the glue can damage the canvas and can cause the fiber colors to change.”
Thanks to those who shared their knowledge. Do you have any more suggestions?
Had it been in the middle of a large area and not doing a tent stitch for a pillow, I think I probably would have selected a Smyrna, Scotch, or Rhodes to cover that one small rip.
Filed under: General comments, Needlework and Textile Guild of Media, Technique Issues
I gave a talk about picking stitches to the members of The Needlework and Fiber Guild of Media earlier this month and here are my takeaway thoughts. I covered a lot in 40 minutes, but since then, I added a couple of more thoughts. I want to know where to find these when I need them and will be adding to this periodically as I come across any gems.
The non-stitchers in the guild (they do all sorts of various crafts such as needle felting, sewing, knitting, quilting, spinning wool, bookbinding, etc) were asking if we’re going to do a group project based on what they learned! I think a simple landscape would work well. This is a very creative group without the types of classes I’ve taken. So, I did stress technique is important although without a desire to become a Master Craftsman or plans to enter into a juried exhibit, it really is about enjoying what you do. If people want to work needlepoint in hand (I used to until I found out about bars), that is entirely fine with me. I’ve told them why I don’t. Some of this is applicable regardless of the medium.
Key Tips and Technique Issues (in no particular order):
• Basketweave area allows for a place for your eyes to rest.
• Color of thread: Light threads appear further away compared to dark threads that appear closer.
• Size of stitches: Small stitches appear further away compared to large stitches that appear closer.
• Odd rule is that odd numbered motifs (1, 3, 5, etc) in a design are more pleasing to the eye.
• Different stitches and threads can create varied texture (bumpy, ridged, smooth, etc).
• Direction of a stitch creates a different effect (water on a lake is typically horizontal; river flowing down a hill with a gradual slope probably has stitches at angles of 30° or less; a waterfall with a steep slope probably has vertical stitches or are 60° or more).
• Area should allow for repeats of 3 units or more (6 wide allows for mosaic and cashmere stitches but not Scotch).
• Companion stitches help create depth by using a smaller stitch such as Serendipity for further away areas, Criss Cross Hungarian for middle ground, and the larger Woven Trellis Variation for the closest areas.



• Composite stitches combine different types of stitches such as straight and cross stitches.
• If a stitch is fancy, use a simple thread; if a thread is fancy, use a simple stitch.
• Stitch diagonal stitches first if they will be next to straight stitches.
• Stitches are worked opposite of the direction you are moving (to get the proper pull). If a diagonal stitch is worked bottom left to upper right, then work towards the left. If a diagonal stitch is worked bottom right to upper left, then work towards the right.

• The direction of a stitch can be changed. In one color, the front of the canvas will look the same but done in two different colors or an overdyed thread, there will be differences.


Did you know there are two ways to stitch Alternating Continental?

That link to ANG has changed since I diagrammed it (https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:VA6C2:3fba9f78-8199-4564-8b67-aec23e9a3779 and only ANG members have access to all previous Stitch of the Month projects).
Does it make a difference?

Yes. You can see the difference in carrying the thread below the hole (left) compared to not (right). Correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe the right side is more like how to work a blackwork pattern or a double running stitch.
Look at this amazing magnet. The white to part actually turns! It’s 2″ across and so strong. Accoutrement Designs has excellent magnets. Such good quality. Birthday gift to myself.

Filed under: General comments, Organization, Tools
During Friday’s reorganization, I gathered all my laying tools.
On the top is an African porcupine quill topped with a bead that was made by Patrick B. The middle row starting on the left has an extra Trolley Needle (went to Ebay; my other one is in my travel tool tote). Next is my fancy Celtic laying tool based on the Trolley Needle design that I use at home (it has a blunt end, and I’ve never come close to poking my eye with it). The “Stitcher’s Best Friend” (SBF) is third and has a nice angled tip, so I brought it upstairs to give it a try. The 4th is the “Best Laying Tool” (BLT), but not for me, although I will keep it in the basement cabinet because it says it’s an American style “Tekobari” with a really sharp tip which is needed doing goldwork.
On the bottom is a double end dental tool that I got as a free gift when daily drawings were held at ANG Seminars. It comes in handy for different things!
Since Saturday was ANG Main Line Stitchers chapter Stitch-in, I grabbed the Adjustable Stretcher Bars by Frank A Edmunds (they didn’t keep the canvas tight and easily got bumped out of shape) and my plastic hoops (I will use Morgan hoops or wooden ones wrapped in twill tape) and dropped them off for sale on Ebay.
I also threw in 1 of 2 Crafter’s Pride “Stitch A Ruler” because I plan to stitch a blackwork piece for 1 of them (I won’t need 2).
It may not be much to get rid of, but it’s some progress in a never-ending goal of getting organized.